Rear disc brakes

Why i did this conversion. First of all the drumbrakes are hard to clean,the brakepads wear out pretty fast.and it's always a problem to open the drum brakes.
and since both sides have leaking cylinders i decided to convert the drum brakes to disc brakes,i've done this before on the LWB but i didn't made a report of it.
The job took more time then planned because of damage to the spring perches as you will read in this "Tech" report, i also swapped in a SJ413 diff to help the engine to turn the 33" tyre's
 

Here we can see the donor front axle i bought.I used the disc,calipers and the caliper holders.

First i took the caliper,brakedisc and brakepad holder of the axles

Here you can see the "Caliper holder on the back of the disc protection shield.this is the part you need to weld to the axle.

This is the part of the axle we don't use for now,untill we brake something while offroading 🙂

This is why i want to convert to the disc brake setup,i took the drum of and here you can see all the mud and leaking brake fluid.

i took the axle shaft out of the axle and removed the backplate which kept the brakepads and brake cylinder in place inside the drum. as you can see the spring perch is not in it's orginal shape due to axle wrap and rust.

The axle wrap als damaged my just new Rancho shocks,but they still work okay.

After i removed the U-bolts you can realy see the damage done to the spring perch

An other view of the damage

I placed a metal plate of 120x50x4mm on the spring (the spring which was fitted with a new higher centre bolt,so i still could centre the axle on the spring)

Sandwiched the metal plate between the axle and the springpack,the axle could centre on the spring since i replaced the centrebolt by a hexbolt

An other view

Ready for a few tag welds so i could finish the welding on the workbench

Tag welds

Tag welds

Caliper holder cut and placed on the axle.i used long nuts so is could get the bolts in later with just one tool. the long nuts will also be welded to the axle.

Here the holder is clammed in position

Holder welded in place,then the rest of the welding will be done on the workbench

Removed the axle and placed it on the workbench

Made a brace for the plate

Brace welded, i also closed the side's with 3mm metal plate

Painted the axle after i cleanded it with angle ginder (wirebrush disc)

I forgot to weld the brakeline tabs to the axle, fixed it and repainted the entire axle again.

New copper brakelines are installed on the axle, i make them myself.with a special brakeline tool

Also new brake hose

New brakelines

I also replaced this brakeline under the car.

Got some new U-Bolts @ Custom Offroad

Cleanded and painted the SJ413 diff i'm going to install in the axle

Axle back under the car,but i should have spend more  time on were to put the brakeline holder tab,since the brake hose now sits between the bumpstop and the chassis. (So i replaced it later)

Cut out a plate out of the old drum backplate to use as a spacer between the axle and bearing holder

These are machined out of the old drumbrake's and will be used to mount the discs on,knock out the orginal studs and replace them with studs out of a front axle (these are longer)

Machined disc on the axle shafts

Disc,new brakepads and caliper installed, also a 40mm wheelspacer to keep the tyre's from touching the springs

Next job, Fabricating a bracket to install the prop-valve on (prop-valve is used to reduce the presure to the rear brakes)

Fabricating the bracket

Bracket ready and painted

Installed the prop-valve on the bracket and made a brakeline to connect it,after i did this i went to a shop to get correct brake bias